Like the sands through the hourglass,
so are the days of our lives in India.
First stop Fort Kochi
As previously noted – we are getting these train trips
down to a fine art – another over-nighter, 15 hours from Margao through the
state of Karnataka to Fort Kochi in Kerala. From the train station at Ernakulam
Town it is another 13 kilometres to Fort Kochi. The town is on one of the small
group of islands joined by bridges to the mainland.
Dedicated to the fishermen of Fort Kochi
and their modes of catching the little fishies!
Haul 'em up buddy. We're waiting!
The Chinese Fishing Nets
These pre-colonial fishing nets on the waterfront are believed to have been introduced by Chinese traders in the early 14th century. Each structure is approximatly 10 metres tall. They are a cantilever system with an outstretched net suspended over the sea and large stones suspended from ropes as counterweights at the other end. The enterprise is operated by a team of around half a dozen fishermen.
A fishing village in pre-colonial times, Fort Kochi is
now a mix of old houses, built by the Portuguese, Dutch and British in their
respective colonial periods, lining the narrow streets and alley ways. Throw in
a few old churches, the food markets behind the famous Chinese fishing nets and
that is Fort Kochi.
St Francis Church was built in 1503 by the Portuguese as a Catholic church. Vasco da Gama was once buried in this church before his remains were eventually returned to his homeland, Portugal.
Santa Cruz Basilica, seen decorated for Christmas, was also built by the Portuguese in the 16th century, then destroyed by the British, and rebuilt near the end of 19th century.
It is a lovely old town to wander spoilt only by its lack
of decent restaurants. There are some, of course, but easily counted on one
hand I would think. On our last night, the night of Boxing Day, we splurged out
and went to the restaurant in the Old Harbour Hotel. That meal was delicious!
The meal was a little more expensive than a typical Fort Kochi meal but well
worth it.
Another downside, the town had an abundance of mosquitoes. Neil had not long recovered from infected flea bites when struck again by a deadly mosquito – another infected bite, this time on his left leg. The moral of it all – don’t squeeze the pimple that comes after the mozzie bite.
One of the food stalls in the park near the waterfront
- sweet chillie, cauliflower, potato and onion pakoras
- a delicious deep fried snack, mmmmm mmmmmm!
Can this be called graffiti?
The recent contemporary art festival in Fort Kochi took street art to another level. The work of this artist was amazing!
Just hanging around waiting for his driver!
Christmas and festival bunting.
The Old Harbour Restaurant
Our shop in Jew Town, Mattancherry!
Another downside, the town had an abundance of mosquitoes. Neil had not long recovered from infected flea bites when struck again by a deadly mosquito – another infected bite, this time on his left leg. The moral of it all – don’t squeeze the pimple that comes after the mozzie bite.
Varkala
On the day after Boxing Day we were on the train tracks
again, southward bound. Varkala was not going to be our last stop before
heading home but it turned out that way. Our return to Kochi for our flight out
was to be via Alleppey and The Backwaters but the mozzie bite infection reared
its ugly head and refused to die. So we decided to remain in Varkala until the
healing was done and that took us through our time left in India.
Southern end (The Holy End) of Varkala on Sunday afternoon.
I think the locals know about it.
Heading north of Varkala Headland
Varkala is a coastal town perched high on red cliffs
above the Arabian Sea. Like many towns in India, Varkala is a holy town with a
2,000 year old temple. Many legends explain the town’s founding. The easiest one
for me to remember is that a Pandyan King was instructed by Lord Brahma to
build a temple at this very place to redeem him of his sins.
The temple is close to the beach which is thought to have
holy waters that wash away sins. Once Neil was able to walk down the long
flight of steps to the beach I was happy if the holy waters could help in the
healing of the infection.
It's a fisherman's life.
- beautiful scenery and life's essentials, his nets, boats and hut
The catch being delivered to local restaurants
A Mosque with a view
New Year disco lights
It has been amazing - four months, thousands of kilometres, far north to very, very south - and still so much to see. Exotic India. India, the land of extremes and contradictions. The very, very rich and the desperately needy; Himalayan moonscapes - alpine mountains; desert plains - tropical jungles; spectacular palaces and impoverished slums. It is all there in this spectacular country. Hopefully we have both grown from our experiences. Your open smiles are printed in our hearts.
We will be gone but you will not be forgotten!
