Trek Diary - Down Into the Valley of Leeches

Day 5 – Monday 17^th September 2012

Tadapani (2,630m) to Chhomrong (1950m) 

The wind started to blow yesterday afternoon and we had several hours without rain. Me, the eternal optimist – is it going to fine up? No!

 

1oo metres max of flat walking to the next guest house then down, down, down into the walley of ..........

We set out at 10am in the rain – couldn’t delay any longer. Down into the valley of leeches trudged the wet and bedraggled trekkers. God I hate those things. Why on earth were they put on this planet? We were continually flicking them off our shoes but still many made their mark. The ankles copped it in many places. Neil and I both got one on our backs. Ram was wearing thongs so he had them between his toes. I had two on the left ear – one a whopper because it had been there a while before discovery. Made a mess when removed, blood gushing down my face! The thrills of trekking in the rain!

Because of the weather we decided to skip lunch. Probably not a wise decision as I did not get a chance to rest my left knee. Because of the rain and needing to step ever so carefully going down wet and slippery steps there is a fair amount of pressure on the knees. About an hour from Chhomrong it started to ache. After it went on me three times I was having difficulty putting any weight on it. Ram massaged the knee to get me going again. And thank heavens for my trusty friend, Mr Walking Stick.

 

It is such a shame that it is raining. The countryside is so beautiful whlen we get a chance to see it, and Chhomrong is a little gem, perched on the side  of a hill (not a mountain – only hills over 4,000m warrant the name of mountains in Nepal). Stayed at Kalpana Lodge.

 

 

Looking down past the guesthouses to the village of Chhomrong disappearing into the fog.

 

Day 6 – Tuesday 18^th September 2012

Chhomrong (1950m) to Bamboo (2190m) 

Raining! Who’d have thought! It is OK once you have started but the thought of going out into the rain yet again is depressing.

Down, down, down to cross the river below the village. I am facing a lot of demons – suspension bridges that move is one of them, wet slippery steps, the fear of falling on them, another. Over the suspension bridge and up, up, up. Although raining there has not been as much fog today and we have been able to see beautiful valleys, many waterfalls and just as many creeks.

 

Down to the river

 

And up the other side - Chhomrong stretched up the hill on the other side. Our guesthouse towards the top on the left.

 

We dried our boots by a fire in the kitchen last night but it was not long before they were drenched again. Soooooo much rain! In many places the rain was cascading down the steps and you just can’t avoid it. You can’t avoid the mud either. Where there isn’t stone path there is mud. Cow shit can be a problem too. Cows choose the most inopportune spots to defecate.

Lunch stop - Sinuwa (top of opposite hill from Chhomrong)

Looking back to Chhomrong



 

I spoke of demons earlier. Most relate to my poor balance and a fear of slipping. We have had to cross many creeks, balancing on stepping stones, and I am improving. My confidence was also building. But ...... about ¾ hour from Bamboo I came a cropper! A creek crossing was my undoing and no stepping stones – just one large mossy rock and water streaming over it. My boots didn’t/couldn’t grip. Down I came like a sack of potatoes!  I had been going so well. No broken bones – two huge welts on my right arm, a grazed left elbow and possibly a bruised left hip – no bruising yet but tender to touch.

Staying at the Buddha Guest House. There are huge waterfalls above us and we are able to see a relatively clear snow capped mountain. False hopes again? Rain has stopped and clouds are lifting. For how long? At dinnertime we could see a SUNSET!!! It was down through the gorge towards Pokhara. The sun was streaking through the clouds.

 

Across the courtyard to the shower and western toilet

Our room with a view - forest and river 

Everyone is keen to dry clothes

Do we spy a mountain? 

Yes we do! ........... excited!

While eating dinner a kerosene heater was lit and placed in a hole beneath the main table. The heater resembles a camping stove with the gas ring alight. Wire is strung around the table so that clothes and any other wet items can be hung up to dry in the warmth. Our shoes and many others were placed underneath as well. Blankets are tacked to the top edge of the table – to warm your legs? - to keep in the smell of dirty clothes and socks drying? I have no idea but all the lodges on the mountain have adopted the technique. At one stage I lifted the blanket at one end to check on our clothes and found myself face to face with two glistening eyes.

 

Cats always know the warm spots to sit!  

Time for bed. The stars are out. Dare we hope?

 

 

Trek Diary – Never mind the weather, never mind the rain!

Day 3 - Saturday 15^th September 2012

Ghorepani (2850m) to Tadapani (2630)

 

We woke to rain. Today was to have been a very early rise to trek to Pun Hill for the sunrise view of the mountains – it was to be our first view of them. It was not to be! We farewelled Yong, Ken and John in the rain. They are heading in a different direction to us.

 

Beautiful bub at our Ghorepani Guesthouse wondering what the tourist is up to

If it stopped raining at any point during the day, it wasn’t for long. It was quite cool but it warmed up quite noticeably once we were walking. We climbed up on to a ridge straight after Ghorepani, followed it for some way then stepped down into a narrow gorge. We were now walking in the rhododendron forests. We crossed the river at the bottom and, towards lunch time, climbed once again out of the gorge.

 

Ginger tea time at Gurung Hill in the midst of the Rhodedenron Forest - still raining!

Lunch at Banthanti - still raining!

After lunch we had our most treacherous stretch. Downhill mud! The stone path had disappeared. It was non existent. I guess the distance wasn’t that great but we had a tough time of it. Thank goodness for walking sticks and Ram, ready to catch me should I slip. Ram guided me through the worst section. The horror stretch ended at another river crossing and it was then into our last climb of the day.

We stayed at the Super View. The shower, although outside and across a wet courtyard, was hot and the fire in the dining hall warm and inviting. Late afternoon the weather looked to be clearing. We glimpsed the hills in the distance and the valley below. Fingers crossed for a break in the rain. Today we trekked for six hours, six hours in the rain and covered between 8 to 10 kilometres. Can’t be more accurate than that – guide opinions vary. 

 

 

The hills are emerging - there are mountains behind them but we can't see them yet - still raining!



Day 4 – Sunday 16^th September

Another day in Tadapani

 

The rain bucketed down all night. The owner of our lodge claims that the gods are angry and hence the bad weather. We have a spare day in our itinerary and we have opted for a rest day. Can’t face another day of being wet, cold and sloshing through mud, It is supposed to start clearing tomorrow if you can believe long range weather forecasts. The prayers are being sent out. Hope to dry out some of our gear and rest the muscles.

 

Trek Diary - Bright Eyed and Bushy Tailed

Day 1 – Thursday 13^th September 2012

Naya pul (1,070m) to Tikedhunga (1,577m) 

It was lightly raining as we left Pokara but thankfully after a one and a half hour taxi ride it remained overcast but dry when we reached Naya Pul. Naya Pul was our trek launching point.  We left the main road, crossed a suspension bridge and were on our way. Our trekking passports were arranged prior to the trek so Ram signed us in at the tourist checkpoint. Let the slow climb begin! 

Today was an ‘easy’ day – four hours of trekking up a steady incline. I hope the mountain legs kick in soon. The climb up to our lunch spot was a tiring one. I felt like the ‘Little Engine’ – I think I can, I think I can.

After lunch we both used our umbrellas for protection against the sun. The scenery was beautiful in the hill land we had been walking in, so very green and fertile and picturesque villages.

  

Rule no. 1 when passing a donkey train - stay close to the hill side, never on the edge. Why? If you are in their way they just knock you down or over the side. They don't veer from their course. And when you are hugging the hill side pray it is a wide path or you get shoved into the rocks. I learnt from experience later the first day, just past the landslide.

 

My two downfalls today – negotiating, terrified, a crumbling landslide with a very narrow ledge and a creek crossing. The creek was approximately four metres wide, the water knee deep and surging, the mode of crossing – rocks towered one on top of the other and wobbling precariously. NO, I did not have the balance needed for this obstacle. The easiest way to cross? Take off the shoes and socks and wade through. No dramas!

 

Our first night – Chandra Guesthouse in the beautiful little village of Tikedhunga. We arrived in glorious sunshine but by nightfall it was raining.

 

 

Day 2 – Friday 14^th September 2012

Tikedhunga (1,577m) to Ghorepani (2,850m) 

The pressure is on! The real trekking has kicked in – saw more steps today than I have ever seen in my life and, today, all of them uphill.

Early breakfast and hit the trail at 7.30am in the fog. A beautiful cascading river gurgled behind our lodge and it wasn’t long before we crossed it.

A bit of headbutting in the morning mist

Then the steps started! A flight of 3,280 in the first hour! No I didn’t count them – it was a statistic that Ram gleefully announced as we mounted the first step. They were the worst. There wasn’t a break, just one after the other, going up and up. Once conquered it was Red Bull and Ginger Tea time.

We continued to climb for the rest of the day. The views would have been spectacular but we didn’t see them. The fog was replaced by rain. The rain continued with varying intensity for the remainder of the day.

As we trekked higher we entered the rhododendron forest. Water streamed across the path in many places but the path was rocky and, although our shoes got very wet, we walked through very little mud.

For the last two days we have been trekking with one Thai, Yong, an American Thai, Ken, and Samma, an Egyptian from Cairo. By trekking with, I really mean that we have been keeping company with them at the same guesthouses and trekking with them on and off during the days. We are all trekking at our own pace so we all separate at different stages along the path. Today we met another Australian, John, from Northern Queensland. He is a Queenslander sooooo ...... enough said!

Staying at Kamali Lodge. The hamstrings are a little bit tight tonight and the muscle down the outside of my left knee is complaining seriously. It would have been nice to only have to climb one flight of stairs to our room but no such luck. There is a much appreciated fire burning downstairs – time to dry out the shoes, lounge in its warmth and chat for a while.

A wet Ghorepani

 

 

Amazing, Astonishing, Astounding, Awesome, Annapurna Sanctuary Trek!!

An Epic Trek in the "Heart of the Himalyas'

Sunrise at ABC

Duration - 12 days

Degree of Difficulty - moderate to strenuous. A 12 day trek on steep trails, 5-8 hours a day, altitudes between 1,000 and 4,130 metres

Maximum Altitude – 4,130 metres

Accommodation – Teahouses and Lodges

Destination - ABC (Annapurna Base Camp) in the Annapurna Sanctuary

Annapurna Sanctuary is a high glacial basin, a natural mountain-ringed amphitheatre, described as one the most dramatic settings in the Himalaya, with a 360-degree panorama of snow-covered peaks including mighty Annapurna I, Annapurna South and the sacred “fishtail” spire of Machapuchare. The only entrance -a narrow pass between the peaks of Hiunchuli and Machpuchare.

 

Sacred Machapuchare (Fishtail)

Looking back towards Annapurna Sanctuary

(This photo was taken on our way down)

Just a bit of background info - The entire sanctuary wass held as sacred to the Gurung people, one of the many native people to inhabit the area. They believed the Nagas, the serpent-gods of India, stored gold and various treasures here. The sanctuary was believed to be the home of several gods, from Buddhism and Hinduism as well the older animistic gods. The peak of Machapuchare at the entrance was believed to be the home of the god Shiva, and the daily plumes of snow were thought to be the smoke of his divine incense. Until recently, the local Gurang people forbade anyone from bringing eggs or meat into the Annapurna Sanctuary, and women and untouchables were prohibited from going there as well.

That’s your little bit of education for the day! Cool information, eh!

To reach this sacred, towering kingdom, we trekked through a stunning array of landscapes, from brilliant green rice terraces, bamboo groves, and rhododendron forests of Gurung country to the dramatic glacier realm surrounded by Himalayan giants. We passed over, under and around waterfalls, viewed life in the local villages and smelt the wildflowers.

Our guide and my champion – Ram (AKA the amazing Ramster)

Our sure footed, man of steel, porter – Raj (AKA Raj)

 

 

Highlights – That goes without saying – THE SCENERY in god’s own country.

Lowlights – Rain, mud, crumbling landslides, slippery boulders, narrow ledges and LEECHES!

 

A lesser landslide conquered on the way down!

 

Conclusion
We did it!!!!! 12 days trekking - up, down, zig-zag and Nepali flat. We definitely earned our trekker stripes.

 5 days pissing down rain, leeches, mud, a few bruises, sore muscles and tired feet. I stepped outside my comfort zone and faced my demons (fear of heights, falling, clambering over slippery surfaces).

Was it worth it?    MOST DEFINITELY!!!! An awesome experience! We got right up close and personal to some of the highest mountains in the world and they are magnificent!

 

Rating - FIVE STAR ALL THE WAY!!!!!!

 

The Four Musketeers