7th November
We farewelled Jai on our second last day in Jaipur as our last was spent wandering the streets of the old city and we didn’t need a driver for that.
We returned to the hotel late in the afternoon, dined and prepared ourselves for our overnighter on a sleeper bus to Jaisalmer. I had been dreading the bus as we had seen some sleepers on our drive to Jaipur and they were pretty rough, however, ours wasn’t didn't appear too bad. The bus had both seats and sleepers. The doubles were above the seats, the single sleepers two tiered on the left hand side. We had a double dog box into which we piled our bags and ourselves. It was a little squishy and Neil’s lanky legs prevented him from lying straight but as the trains were fully booked once again it had to be done.
Leaving Jaipur was a humbling experience as travelling in India often is. Dust, dirt and decaying rubbish is a constant grievance here. Departing Jaipur during the night hours it hit home once again that I had nothing to complain about when the dust gets up my nose, my face feels grimy and a layer of dirt covers my feet. At the end of the day I return to my clean hotel room. I might walk along dirty streets and inhale the often less than savoury street aromas but I have a choice. I am choosing to be here and to wander these streets. Watching the homeless, the drifters and the beggars bed down for the night in the dirt of a median strip on a busy highway struck deep. India strides into the future as one of the fastest growing nations in the economic world and the chasm between the rich and the desperately poor gets wider and deeper by the minute.
8th – 11th November
The town lies on a ridge leading down to the desert. The ridge itself is crowned by a fort/palace. Our hotel was within easy walking distance and most importantly, at least for Neil, we found a cafe that served real cappuccino just inside the first gate of the fort.
We had a camel safari arranged for the last two days here but thankfully one of the young lads convinced us (it really wasn’t hard as it made a great deal of sense) to go a day earlier and rearranged things for us. Going a day earlier meant that we were able to return to our hotel for the last night rather than returning from the desert and catching a train later the same day.
The camel safari wasn’t a camel safari as such but we did travel further into the desert (a jeep ride), we rode camels across the sand dunes into the sunset and we had a lovely dinner and entertainment under the desert stars. We each had our own camels for our little jaunt. Mine was a lovely young male with a beautiful temperament, quite the pretty boy who didn’t mind you telling him so. He turned his ears when I whispered sweet nothings to him and even seemed to respond with a proud camel smile. Neil’s was an ornery older female who definitely seemed to be having a bad day. She wouldn’t allow anyone to get too close to her and had her own mind about what she would like to be doing and taking Neil for a ride wasn’t high on her priority list! She did so but not without presenting her own thoughts on the matter. Although the ride wasn’t a long one, Neil returned with a very sore butt (the skin was actually grazed in an area about the size of a 20 cent piece). His saddle had been a lot harder than mine.
We rode into the dunes to watch the sunset then returned to the village where we were to dine, be entertained and stay the night. We had the option of sleeping in the sand-dunes but opted for a more comfortable bed. I had been bitten by a dung beetle out on the dunes and didn’t wish to have a rerun during the night.
We returned to Jaisalmer the following morning not long before mid-day. The remainder of our time until our departure the following afternoon was spent exploring the fort area, the old city and Gadisar Lake.
Entry into the fort is a bit of a zig-zag path through a series of massive gates. Once inside, wandering the honeycomb of narrow, winding lanes paved in stone we discovered the customary palace, various temples and carless streets packed with houses and handicraft shops. The number of tourist shops and stalls was well over the top and often difficult to escape the constant harassment. The best comment from a spruiker that did make us laugh was, "You come my shop sir. Give me chance to rip you off." The line didn't work but it was original.
Inside looking back at the first gateway
- Jaisal Italy above the gate is the restaurant with 'real coffee'.
Second gateway
Some fort facts so that you learn something!
Gadisar Lake is another of the major tourist attractions. We were given directions for walking there and assured that it wasn't far from our hotel but thankfully decided to take a tuk. Yes it was on the outskirts of the old town not that far from our hotel but in an entirely different direction to the one given to us. Touted as a natural oasis it is actually a water conservation tank made 600 years ago by the then
maharaja of Jaisalmer and was a reservoir that controlled the entire
supply of water to the arid city. Luckily it does not serve that purpose nowadays.
Approaching the lake you pass under a
beautiful gateway (Gate of Tillon) that arches across the road. It was built by
a royal courtesan and later given her name. Legend has it that the then Maharawal did not want to accept a gateway financed by a prostitute as it would be beneath his dignity to have to pass through it. To solve the problem she had it built in his absence and declared the building on top a Krishna Temple to save it from
demolition. Smart girl!
On the walk down to the lake
Surrounding the lake itself there are a variety of temples and shrines. To make your outing complete you can also hire a boat and have a bit of a row but that is more of a local thing.
Not only do you get hit by the touts inside the fort but also on the walk up there. Here, however, the encouragement is a bit more subtle.
We farewelled Jai on our second last day in Jaipur as our last was spent wandering the streets of the old city and we didn’t need a driver for that.
We returned to the hotel late in the afternoon, dined and prepared ourselves for our overnighter on a sleeper bus to Jaisalmer. I had been dreading the bus as we had seen some sleepers on our drive to Jaipur and they were pretty rough, however, ours wasn’t didn't appear too bad. The bus had both seats and sleepers. The doubles were above the seats, the single sleepers two tiered on the left hand side. We had a double dog box into which we piled our bags and ourselves. It was a little squishy and Neil’s lanky legs prevented him from lying straight but as the trains were fully booked once again it had to be done.
The dog box
Leaving Jaipur was a humbling experience as travelling in India often is. Dust, dirt and decaying rubbish is a constant grievance here. Departing Jaipur during the night hours it hit home once again that I had nothing to complain about when the dust gets up my nose, my face feels grimy and a layer of dirt covers my feet. At the end of the day I return to my clean hotel room. I might walk along dirty streets and inhale the often less than savoury street aromas but I have a choice. I am choosing to be here and to wander these streets. Watching the homeless, the drifters and the beggars bed down for the night in the dirt of a median strip on a busy highway struck deep. India strides into the future as one of the fastest growing nations in the economic world and the chasm between the rich and the desperately poor gets wider and deeper by the minute.
8th – 11th November
Camels are still a common sight on the roads of Rajasthan transporting all manner of goods.
After being shaken and jostled for
thirteen hours along a very rough road we arrived in Jaisalmer, in the heart of
the Thar Desert, around 9am. It had been very cold during the night. The
windows refused to stay shut as we bumped our way east to west across Rajasthan.
The town lies on a ridge leading down to the desert. The ridge itself is crowned by a fort/palace. Our hotel was within easy walking distance and most importantly, at least for Neil, we found a cafe that served real cappuccino just inside the first gate of the fort.
Jaisalmer Fort perched high above the old city
The fort seen from outside the old town
State of the art scaffolding supporting workers reinforcing the foundations of the ridge beneath the fort.
Looking down on the city from the ramparts of the fort
One of the many winding alleys below the fort.
On of the beautiful old havelis (big mansions)
It obviously gets very windy here
as wind farming has taken off in a big way.
Thankfully it wasn't windy while we were here
We had a camel safari arranged for the last two days here but thankfully one of the young lads convinced us (it really wasn’t hard as it made a great deal of sense) to go a day earlier and rearranged things for us. Going a day earlier meant that we were able to return to our hotel for the last night rather than returning from the desert and catching a train later the same day.
The camel safari wasn’t a camel safari as such but we did travel further into the desert (a jeep ride), we rode camels across the sand dunes into the sunset and we had a lovely dinner and entertainment under the desert stars. We each had our own camels for our little jaunt. Mine was a lovely young male with a beautiful temperament, quite the pretty boy who didn’t mind you telling him so. He turned his ears when I whispered sweet nothings to him and even seemed to respond with a proud camel smile. Neil’s was an ornery older female who definitely seemed to be having a bad day. She wouldn’t allow anyone to get too close to her and had her own mind about what she would like to be doing and taking Neil for a ride wasn’t high on her priority list! She did so but not without presenting her own thoughts on the matter. Although the ride wasn’t a long one, Neil returned with a very sore butt (the skin was actually grazed in an area about the size of a 20 cent piece). His saddle had been a lot harder than mine.
Having a good long drink before his walk.
I thought I was going to tumble over his head into the trough. Neil's camel barred any refreshment!
Yes I did ride a camel. I am the shadow with the camera.
Desert vistas
My beautiful boy!
Sharing a joke!
Who couldn't love such a beautiful face?
Back off! I am having a bad day and I AM NOT AMUSED!!
Photo speaks for itself - a beautiful desert sunset!
We rode into the dunes to watch the sunset then returned to the village where we were to dine, be entertained and stay the night. We had the option of sleeping in the sand-dunes but opted for a more comfortable bed. I had been bitten by a dung beetle out on the dunes and didn’t wish to have a rerun during the night.
The entertainment
Has to be an easier way to pick up the tips
left on the ground!
Our room in the desert
We returned to Jaisalmer the following morning not long before mid-day. The remainder of our time until our departure the following afternoon was spent exploring the fort area, the old city and Gadisar Lake.
Lost count - another gateway
The Royal Palace
Some fort facts so that you learn something!
Temple
Gate of Tillon with Krishna Temple on top
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