RAMBLING BEARS: Kashmir – ‘Heaven on Earth’

30^thJuly

It is only an hour flight from Delhi to Srinagar so we did not have to wait long before we were glimpsing the Lower Himalayas and descending over lush green fields breasted by alpine mountains. The state of Jammu and Kashmir has a strong military presence and all foreigners have to register on arrival so after filling out the extensive forms we were quickly led to a jeep and on our way to our houseboat.

Jhelum River winds through the town of Srinagar and leads into Dal Lake, east of the hustle and bustle. Our first view of any houseboats was on the river and they were a sorry looking lot that had long passed their used by date. But it wasn’t long before we left the river and saw the open waters of the beautiful lake. The lake with the mountains surrounding it and the town, and the old fort high on a hill towering above all creates picture postcard stuff.

When we arrived we were ferried across the waters in a shikara (a Kashmiri gondola).

Our houseboat is called the Young Azira and we are here for the next six nights. The houseboats no longer move around the lake as they did in the days of the British coming here to escape the heat of the Indian summers. There are far too many of them for that and nowadays they are bigger, like a small floating guest house with four or five bedrooms with ensuites, a dining room and lounge area. We were given the Honeymoon Suite at the end of a long narrow hall. All the inside walls of the boat are of carved wood, the floors carpeted in locally woven rugs and chandeliers hang from the ceilings – very ornate and luxurious.

Our Houseboat - The Young Alzira

The Honeymoon Suite

From the Dining Room looking out to the lake

We organised an itinerary with the boat owner for the next five days. It is highly overpriced but we will be occupied for the entire time (literally, with little time to scratch ourselves) and seeing a lot of Kashmir that might be difficult to arrange on our own. After all, we might only be here once.

Once settled in we headed to the roof deck, relaxed, enjoyed the beautiful vistas sipped Kashmiri cinnamon and cardamom green tea and swapped stories with a young Dutch couple who had just returned from a trek.

The Bathing Pontoon -not for this black duck

Water Skiing Kashmiri Style

31^st July

What a beautiful morning! Mist over the mountains, the lake mirror calm, golden eagles soaring high above and a flotilla of shop shikaras creating small floating markets outside the houseboats with all manner of merchandise (fresh flowers, general groceries, vegies etc).

After a leisurely start to the day we continued in much the same vein as we were paddled in comfort like Lord and Lady Muck in our shikara through the backwaters and across open expanses of Dal and Nagin Lakes.

Our Shikara Wallah

Making me a water lily necklace!

Lord and Lady Muck - Salim behind.

Moghul Island

In many places the lakes are a maze of intricate waterways amongst small islands of dry land and floating gardens where crops of tomatoes, watermelons, eggplants, cucumbers and what they call pumpkins grow. The pumpkins are green and similar to a large squash. Large tracts of water lilies and lotus also grow in profusion. Nothing goes to waste. The lily and lotus leaves are harvested and used to feed the cattle. Long grass grows around the edges of the dry and floating islands and this is cut, dried and woven into matting.

Entering the maze of waterways.

'Pumpkins' off to market.

Grass harvested and being taken home to be dried.

While paddling through the mazes we saw an abundance of bird life – kingfishers I can name and ducks of course and many other water birds.

So cute!

After paddling past a fishing village we alighted near the White Mosque for a wander through the village on the shoreline.

Fisherman with his Huqqa at the ready to while away the hours!

Dress making factory - dresses dyed, washed in lake and hung out to dry.

Washing newly embroidered cloth readying for sale.

The Spin Dryer

From there we went back into the lotus gardens for a romantic lunch of curries and rice – Neil, Salim (our guide while we are here), our shikara wallah and me.

After a quiet nap amongst the lotus gardens it was back into the maze past more local villages and completing our tour with a paddle through a Kashmiri style shopping mall (floating houseboat shops). A wonderful day! Our shikara wallah was such a lovely man – open, friendly and always smiling. He paddled a bloody long way, often in hte full sun and it was a very hot day out on the water. However, our butts were just a little sore after sitting for so long. We were away for about six hours.

Fixing the bridge - check the hammer!