RAMBLING BEARS: The Mughal Gardens and the Old City of Srinagar

2^nd August

Neil was feeling a lot better today so we played the tourist together. We stayed locally, visiting perhaps four different Mughal Gardens which was quite a hot exercise as it was a bright sunny day. The first gardens, The Parimahal Gardens or ‘Fairy Gardens’, nestle high on a mountain overlooking the town and the lakes. The spectacular view puts into perspective the layout of Dal Lake and the positioning of Srinagar.

The Parimahal Gardens

Looking down on Dal Lake

Looking across Dal Lake to Old Srinagar City and the Fort on the hill in the distance

No, I wouldn't enjoy mowing the lawn either!

Neil, Mughal Lord, with his huqqa.

The last gardens visited were the Shalimargh Bagh. Back in the day the Mughal rulers of India used to find retreat from the heat of the plains of India in the cool green heights of Kashmir where they built formal gardens to lounge around in, smoking huqqas, and pass the time of day perhaps dallying with fair maidens. Shalimargh Bagh was built by one of these rulers, Jehangir, for his beautiful wife. The gardens had fallen into disrepair but now a great effort is being made to restore the fountains and watercourses to their former glory.

Huge Walnut Tree

Salim enjoyed playing photographer and there are quite a few photos of Neil and I together!

Foreign lady frightening one of the local cuties.

Shalimargh Bagh Gardens

Boys will be boys!

The old wall that once kept the riff-raff out

Once upon a time the gardens extended into the lake with a bridged walkway. Only some of the bridges remain.

It was a Hindu holiday today and Hindis holidaying here from southern parts were out and about in their best clobber. It always amazes me that there are always so many locals who want to get their photo taken with the old foreigners. But it is the case so quite a few people have holiday pics with two old Australians in them! What a hoot!

We had a packed lunch which we ate across the road from Shalimarg Bagh in the shade of one of the many kiosks.

After lunch and on the way to the old city we stopped by a carpet factory. The sole purpose, of course, was for the hard sell. However, it was interesting to see the carpets. There were some beautiful ones and those were very expensive!!! The factory owner was not impressed with my don't want one attitude and suggested Neil to return without me!

A weaver in action.

Once we had escaped the carpet factory we were able to stroll through the Old City at the base of the impressive Hari Parbat Hill with the Fort on top. Unfortunately you can’t visit the fort as it is occupied by the military.

The Fort overlooking the old city

Looking at the fort from the river side

The old city is a labyrinth of alleys with mosques, shops, houses and schools. It is the commercial centre for the locals. Our suitcase had suffered the worse for wear and had a broken wheel so we took it to one of the little shops and had it fixed. It should be good again now for a few more hundred kilometres. While exploring the alleys we visited the Jama Masjid (there a lot of mosques of the same name in India), another beautiful old, old mosque which has a beautifully painted papier-mache decorated interior and the Tomb of Zain-ul-Abidin. The tomb doesn’t have the body of said fellow inside but his mother. Said fellow is buried outside but I guess you can’t name such a beautiful Persian looking tomb after a mere female!