Thursday, 25 October 2012

Helambu Diary - Going up, going up, going higher!!

Day 3 – Thursday 11th October
Gul Bhanjyang to Mangengoth (3,295m)
 
 The lodge and monastery in the morning light


Woke to a beautiful morning and gorgeous views.
 

 
Today was a big one – mostly up and rarely on properly formed steps – lots of boulders and lots of gravel. In between, however, we had pleasant walks through meadows and forests. We have climbed a thousand metres.
 


Our lunch spot



After lunch we entered Langtang National Park


and walked through a 'prehistoric' forest!


The 'dinosaurs' loomed high above us.

The forests were mossy and cool.

Now that is a big Christmas Tree

Over another ridge and going down - just for now a litle while.

When we reached the top of the pass at Magengoth we were to stay in the comfy lodge at the summit but Ari had gone on ahead. We trekked onwards for another 15 minutes to a lodge, Darjeeling Lodge, that is a far poorer option.
 
 In hindsight - we definitely should have stayed here.

I think we are in for a cold night.  The outside facade of the lodge is typical of the local architecture, locally hewn stone blocks, and looking quite quaint with its crooked veranda. It is the inside that sets the buildings apart, however. This one is dark and dusty, glass missing in some windows, replaced with plastic that has since ripped and room partitions that have gaps in between the slats. All things that with a little  effort can be easily fixed.

The owner’s daughter is the cook and she is elsewhere. Ram has volunteered to cook our meals. The kitchen has no light so Ram has his head torch on. There is one light in the dining area, run on solar power (at the moment, as I noted earlier, the number of sunlit hours in the day is limited so electric light power will also be limited). There is also a wood stove in here but all the doors are open so it will be a slow process to warm.

On dusk the chickens were very keen to come inside and we kept shooing them out, little knowing that it was their bedtime and bed was a wooden box in the dining room! Chickens, I apologise!

Day 4 – Friday 12th October
Mangengoth to Tharepati (3,600m – highest point of the trek)
Yes, the lodge looks cute, warm and inviting.
With a woman's touch and a little TLC I'm sure it would be.


 


 

I had my doubts about last night’s lodge but feared that my evaluation was a little harsh. No it wasn’t! We had rats in our room. One attempted to bite Neil on the ear. Luckily he woke and threw his pillow at it. Unfortunately sleep did not return for him during the night. He remained alert, awaiting a return visit.

It was an extremely cold night- three degrees perhaps? We woke, once again, to a crystal clear morning and frost covering the ground as far as the eye could see.
 Frost on moss

 



 
Today was a short walk, just three and a half hours – all uphill but a good walk through more forests and meadow land. We arrived just after mid-day.

 
 






Where we are staying, Sumchu Top Lodge, is basic but sweet, spotlessly clean with a very nice dining area and a good wood stove in the middle.
Sumchu Top Lodge in the distance on top of the ridge

 
The cheery Dining Area


The lodge is having a busy night with 3 Danes, 4 Fins, us and the accompanying  guides and porters. A Full House!

Read my stars for the week last Saturday in the local Kathmandu paper. I was to remain at home on Thursday and Friday and perform safe tasks! Friday is now at an end and I am thankfully sitting safe, sound  and comfy in front of a warm fire, watching a glorious sunset.
 



 

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