Monday, 22 October 2012

To Helambu and Back - A Trek Diary

The Helambu Trek

 Sunrise view from Tharepati





 

Duration – 9 days
Maximum elevation – 3,600m

The tourist season has ramped up a few more gears and the more popular treks are overwhelmed with humanity. With that in mind we chose this trek, not as well known or popular as the Everest Base Camp and the Annapurna treks, so we can enjoy the wilds and wonders of Nepal without the hordes.
Our trek starts in Sundarijal at the eastern end of the Kathmandu Valley, loops through the Sherpa populated Helambu Region to the northeast and finishes in Malemchi Pul Bazaar.
 
Looking back towards the Kathmandu Valley - Day1
Our little group this time – Neil and I, Ram (our guide and companion from our ABC trek) and Ari, our porter.
 

Day 1 – Tuesday 9th October, 2012
It was overcast when the four of us departed Kathmandu around 7.30am and drove to Sundarijal(1,370m) in a taxi.

Sunarijal (1,370m) to Chisopani (2,300m)
The early morning haze disappeared and the sun shone warmly as we began our trek from Sundarijal to Chisopani.
 
It would have been good to have an easy warm up for the legs, but, that wasn’t going to happen. Not 20 metres, after alighting, virtually straight from the taxi, we were climbing a long flight of steps.

Today was approximately 6 hours, including lunch stop, through villages and rhododendron forests. Although there were a lot of ups and downs the going wasn’t too hard.
 
Goats having morning tea - whatever the brew,
it must be damn good!






Unfortunately the showers at our lodge were cold. Despite that minor detail it was still nice to have a shower at the end of the day. It was short and sweet as the outside temperature was dropping quickly but it was refreshing. The lodge was busy as Chisopani hosts trekkers embarking on, or returning from, several different treks. We almost represented a mini League of Nations - Israelis, French, Dutch, German and us Aussies.

And..... we seem to have done it again – towards evening it started to rain! 

Day 2 – Wednesday 10th October, 2012
Chisopani to Gul Bhanjyang (2,265m)
Although it rained through the night we woke to a beautiful morning with views of the Annapurna, Manaslu and Lantang Ranges (unfortunately I am unable to note the names of the others as I have difficulty getting my head around the names). 
Views from the rooftop of our lodge



The spectacular views of the oh so beautiful mountains continued as we walked along the ridge towards the next village

 
We walked along a road of sorts for maybe a couple of kilometres. Now....... if you had the choice would you stay on said road because it went to where you wanted to go despite meandering a bit, or......... would you choose the washed-out creek bed because it is the more direct route – straight down, slippery, muddy etc. Bad choice Ram! I would have arrived a lot faster had I remained on the road. Down-hill, slippery creek beds are not my forte.

Our path today took us through some lovely villages. At our first stop, for the obligatory morning cuppa, we watched the children head off to school. They were all ages from kindie to high school. There was a village school, with maybe five classrooms, but not enough rooms to cater for the age range and the number of children attending. Makeshift classrooms  made of bamboo were built along the main road of the village but I still don’t know how they managed as there seemed to be a lot of children and teenagers walking to school from the village and down from the hills.
 
Enjoying a cuppa and the view is not too bad either!

One of the bamboo classrooms

After leaving the above village we continued over the hilltop and along the next ridge. Everywhere we looked the views were spectacular.
 


Almost lunchtime. This village, like so many Nepali villages, is perched on the side of a hill with, at least, 180 degree valley views

 
 The corn has been stacked and left to dry on the terraces
 
 The corn stacks
A typical homestay/lodge kitchen.
Spotless and everything in its place.

 On our climb up to the village where we lunched we followed three nurses who set up a day/baby clinic at the lodge we ate at. Young babies were checked and weighed, medical complaints were discussed and the locals sat and had a good chat.
After lunch the afternoon fogs began to roll across once again.

 
The afternoon fog rolled up the valley and shrouded the hills. Our final stop is Thodong Lama Lodge, a lodge and a private monastery. It is basic but a beautiful little lodge freshly painted and clean, bucket shower and candle power in the rooms. The light used in the kitchen and dining hall is solar, a very difficult source of energy when there are only limited hours of sunlight before the fogs settle in the early afternoon.

 
Today – 6 hours trekking.

 

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