24th - 25th August
Who'd have thought - it was raining when we said farewell to McLeod Ganj and the mountains of Northern India. As we descended to the plains the weather cleared - not to a bright sunny day, but no longer raining. We gave a huge sigh of relief when we thought we had left the rain behind us.
We chose to stay at the Grand Hotel because of its proximity to the railway station and The Golden Temple. Our stay was to be a short one so we wanted a central location. The Grand Hotel is one of the oldest hotels in Amritsar and, although no longer grand, it had definitely been that way once and was a lovely old hotel with a welcoming feel, comfortable rooms, a gorgeous courtyard and a pleasant attached pub/restaurant.
Amritsar is a large dusty city and really, for us, just a quick stop-over on our way back to Delhi. Delhi, also, just a quick stop to sort out some things before we flew to Nepal. On our arrival we organised a tour to the three sights we chose to see on our one full day in Amritsar - Mata Temple, the India - Pakistan Border Ceremony and The Golden Temple. Once that was organised we washed off the grime of the journey, dined and had an early night.
That night the rains we thought we had left behind fell in bucket loads once again and flooded the streets of a very flat Amritsar. The hotel courtyard filled with water and resembled a large swimming pool. The following morning was still wet out on the streets so we rested until tour time.
The Tour
Stop 1 - Mata Temple
The Hindu Temple commemorates the female saint, Lal Devi, and of course is immensely popular with the women folk in the area particularly, apparently, women wishing to become pregnant.
Once you enter the temple you head off into a maze of corridors and grottoes with numerous shrines depicting various Hindu deities.
The corridors are a scaled down version of a cave temple in Jammu and require crawling through tunnels and wading through water.
My awe of the temple was dashed the moment we stepped outside and realised that my sandals (good Merrel walking sandals) and Neil's thongs were gone. Stolen! After 5 minutes of carefully searching the area we found Neil's hidden in behind some rubbish. Mine - definitely gone! Yes, it was probably our fault as we had not checked them in - we did not see or know that there was a place to do so. However, we left them where we saw many others leaving theirs, including tourists, and it was in the enclosure of a religious site. Neil was furious and was a little vocal with his anger. But what to do? Anger was not going to solve the issue. We had just commenced the tour. We were on a time schedule and with others. I continued barefoot.
Stop 2 - The India-Pakistan Border Closing Ceremony
What a hoot! Each evening at sunset the guards from both countries engage in pure theatrics, pomp and macho posturing as they close the border for the night. Each country has their individual performance on either side of two sets of gates. Unfortunately from where we were standing we really only got to see the Indian performance but it would have been hard to see both from any point except between the gates which is not allowed, of course.
While awaiting the commencement of the event the Indian crowds on our side were revved up into a nationalistic fervour. A couple of event photographers photographed Indian citizens large and small as they ran backwards and forwards with the Indian flag. Closer to the ceremony the anthems and national songs were played and the crowds sang and danced, particularly the women.
The event starts with a bellow from the guardroom and out march the guards. The guards on each side march up and down in front of their own audience, stomping their feet, goose stepping, performing high kicks and ballet like pirouettes, and running down to the gates to huff and puff and shake their fists at the other side. While this performance is being played out the home crowds yell and cheer.
After a time the gates between the two countries opened an officer from each side met and saluted each other. After a bit more goose stepping the guards faced their numerous flags and all were lowered at the same time.
Stop 3 - The Golden Temple - The Holiest Shrine of the Sikh Religion
By the time the performance had finished it was evening. We walked with the hordes back to our car and headed to the temple.
It was a Saturday evening so the temple was extremely crowded. I didn't have to worry about leaving my shoes anywhere and Neil chose to wait for me outside. He was over temples that day. After I had assured security that I did not have shoes, cigarettes or alcohol in my bag I entered the temple complex.
It was beautifully lit up and enchanting in the night lights. The marble temple, Hari Mandir, stood in the middle of a sacred pool.
On our return to the hotel I scrubbed my feet and rinced them with disinfectant. God only knows what I had walked across that day, particularly on the wet streets on our long walk to the temple. I shudder to think.
26th August
Early the next morning we caught the train to Delhi. Without any difficulty we managed to get ourselves into the wrong carriage 14 carriages away from where we should have been. I was quite a task to get ourselves and our luggage to where we were supposed to be!
Who'd have thought - it was raining when we said farewell to McLeod Ganj and the mountains of Northern India. As we descended to the plains the weather cleared - not to a bright sunny day, but no longer raining. We gave a huge sigh of relief when we thought we had left the rain behind us.
We chose to stay at the Grand Hotel because of its proximity to the railway station and The Golden Temple. Our stay was to be a short one so we wanted a central location. The Grand Hotel is one of the oldest hotels in Amritsar and, although no longer grand, it had definitely been that way once and was a lovely old hotel with a welcoming feel, comfortable rooms, a gorgeous courtyard and a pleasant attached pub/restaurant.
Amritsar is a large dusty city and really, for us, just a quick stop-over on our way back to Delhi. Delhi, also, just a quick stop to sort out some things before we flew to Nepal. On our arrival we organised a tour to the three sights we chose to see on our one full day in Amritsar - Mata Temple, the India - Pakistan Border Ceremony and The Golden Temple. Once that was organised we washed off the grime of the journey, dined and had an early night.
That night the rains we thought we had left behind fell in bucket loads once again and flooded the streets of a very flat Amritsar. The hotel courtyard filled with water and resembled a large swimming pool. The following morning was still wet out on the streets so we rested until tour time.
The Tour
Stop 1 - Mata Temple
The Hindu Temple commemorates the female saint, Lal Devi, and of course is immensely popular with the women folk in the area particularly, apparently, women wishing to become pregnant.
Once you enter the temple you head off into a maze of corridors and grottoes with numerous shrines depicting various Hindu deities.
The corridors are a scaled down version of a cave temple in Jammu and require crawling through tunnels and wading through water.
My awe of the temple was dashed the moment we stepped outside and realised that my sandals (good Merrel walking sandals) and Neil's thongs were gone. Stolen! After 5 minutes of carefully searching the area we found Neil's hidden in behind some rubbish. Mine - definitely gone! Yes, it was probably our fault as we had not checked them in - we did not see or know that there was a place to do so. However, we left them where we saw many others leaving theirs, including tourists, and it was in the enclosure of a religious site. Neil was furious and was a little vocal with his anger. But what to do? Anger was not going to solve the issue. We had just commenced the tour. We were on a time schedule and with others. I continued barefoot.
Stop 2 - The India-Pakistan Border Closing Ceremony
What a hoot! Each evening at sunset the guards from both countries engage in pure theatrics, pomp and macho posturing as they close the border for the night. Each country has their individual performance on either side of two sets of gates. Unfortunately from where we were standing we really only got to see the Indian performance but it would have been hard to see both from any point except between the gates which is not allowed, of course.
While awaiting the commencement of the event the Indian crowds on our side were revved up into a nationalistic fervour. A couple of event photographers photographed Indian citizens large and small as they ran backwards and forwards with the Indian flag. Closer to the ceremony the anthems and national songs were played and the crowds sang and danced, particularly the women.
Just a few spectators watching the event!
And there was dancing, dancing in the street!
The event starts with a bellow from the guardroom and out march the guards. The guards on each side march up and down in front of their own audience, stomping their feet, goose stepping, performing high kicks and ballet like pirouettes, and running down to the gates to huff and puff and shake their fists at the other side. While this performance is being played out the home crowds yell and cheer.
After a time the gates between the two countries opened an officer from each side met and saluted each other. After a bit more goose stepping the guards faced their numerous flags and all were lowered at the same time.
The gates are open for a short time
Down come the flags. Slowly, slowly so that both country's flags are at the same level at the same time!!
The flags being put to bed for the night
Popcorn after the performance!
Stop 3 - The Golden Temple - The Holiest Shrine of the Sikh Religion
By the time the performance had finished it was evening. We walked with the hordes back to our car and headed to the temple.
It was a Saturday evening so the temple was extremely crowded. I didn't have to worry about leaving my shoes anywhere and Neil chose to wait for me outside. He was over temples that day. After I had assured security that I did not have shoes, cigarettes or alcohol in my bag I entered the temple complex.
It was beautifully lit up and enchanting in the night lights. The marble temple, Hari Mandir, stood in the middle of a sacred pool.
On our return to the hotel I scrubbed my feet and rinced them with disinfectant. God only knows what I had walked across that day, particularly on the wet streets on our long walk to the temple. I shudder to think.
26th August
Early the next morning we caught the train to Delhi. Without any difficulty we managed to get ourselves into the wrong carriage 14 carriages away from where we should have been. I was quite a task to get ourselves and our luggage to where we were supposed to be!
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