6th- 12th August
It was a very enjoyable trip to Leh but it was with a great sense of relief that we passed through the gates of the Bijoo Hotel where we were to stay for the next 6 nights. I guess it was moreso because we had arrived in one piece, which is always a bonus, after some of the hair-raising moments out on the open road but it was also a relief to find that our accommodation looked to be decent. We had had a bit of a mix-up. The hotel we had booked cancelled the booking at the last minute while we were on route and the Bijoo was an unknown to us.
However, it all turned out well. The hotel had a pleasant courtyard and restaurant/breakfast area, our room was light and airy, the bed comfy, the bed linen clean and the bathroom was a very functional one - room to catch up on the mundane task of laundry, hot water and good water pressure.
We were positioned in the heart of Leh within easy walking distance of a wide range of restaurants, sight-seeing highlights and local villages.
Leh is positioned at an elevation of 3505m and like most of Ladakh, is in a stunning desert and mountain landscape. Even the shortest of walks require walking up and down hills.
Thankfully we had entered Ladakh overland through Kashmir and had become acclimatised to altitude gradually over the previous five days, and, as far as I am aware , we did not suffer from any altitude sickness. Even so we did not take on any serious hill climbing in the first couple of days.
Although Leh Palace, a nine storey building, is not at the highest point on the hill the sheer magnitude of the structure makes it dominate like a sentinel over the town of Leh nestling beneath it. Viewing the palace required scaling the hillside to reach it. There is always an easier way to accomplish that end but unfortunately we did not spy it until we were high inside the palace looking down. The royal family was exiled from Leh in the 1830's and the palace has been allowed to become dilapidated. Reconstruction is now underway but it will be an enormous task. Part way down from the palace I realised that I had left my bag back inside. Needless to say, Neil was not impressed but raced back up the hill to attempt to retrieve it. Luckily for me it was still sitting where I had left it.
A steep path leads from the palace up past the ruined fort to the Namgyal Tsemo Gompa but we opted for the softer option and got a taxi from the town the following day. Slippery paths at heights just aren't my thing. The Gompa is at the summit and offers magnificent views of the old town, Leh itself and the surrounding valley. The gompa was built in 1430 and features a wonderful, huge Buddha image and intricate frescoes.
The old town of Leh wraps around the base of the hill and, like most old towns, is a maze of alleyways that twist and turn.
From the town of Leh it is easy to set off in any direction down narrow lanes to visit the neighbouring villages. The downhill ambles to the villages were always very enjoyable - the uphill walk back, a little more taxing.
Mo mos washed down with lemon mint tea became our favourite fare, our favourite cafe, Gesmo. There are many nice restaurants in Leh because it is bit of a tourist hub and a common theme are the many german bakeries selling a wide rage of wonderful cakes, sweet pies and cookies.
Leh is a relaxing place to visit with the hassle factor low. The local ladakhi and tibetan refugees are extremely friendly, hospitable and chilled. Although a part of India the general feel of the place is far removed. The only downside of Leh and Ladakh is the ever present DUST. You can't escape it. It is everywhere!
Soma Gompa - Leh's modern centre of Buddhism
It was a very enjoyable trip to Leh but it was with a great sense of relief that we passed through the gates of the Bijoo Hotel where we were to stay for the next 6 nights. I guess it was moreso because we had arrived in one piece, which is always a bonus, after some of the hair-raising moments out on the open road but it was also a relief to find that our accommodation looked to be decent. We had had a bit of a mix-up. The hotel we had booked cancelled the booking at the last minute while we were on route and the Bijoo was an unknown to us.
However, it all turned out well. The hotel had a pleasant courtyard and restaurant/breakfast area, our room was light and airy, the bed comfy, the bed linen clean and the bathroom was a very functional one - room to catch up on the mundane task of laundry, hot water and good water pressure.
View from our balcony at the Bijoo
We were positioned in the heart of Leh within easy walking distance of a wide range of restaurants, sight-seeing highlights and local villages.
Leh is positioned at an elevation of 3505m and like most of Ladakh, is in a stunning desert and mountain landscape. Even the shortest of walks require walking up and down hills.
Thankfully we had entered Ladakh overland through Kashmir and had become acclimatised to altitude gradually over the previous five days, and, as far as I am aware , we did not suffer from any altitude sickness. Even so we did not take on any serious hill climbing in the first couple of days.
Looking down on Leh from varying heights on Namgayak Hill are Leh Palace, the ruins Victory Fort and overlooking them all, Namgyal Tsemo Gompa.
Leh Palace high on the hill. The ruined fort above and higher still, Namgyal Tsemo Gompa (only partially seen)
The three from a different angle
Although Leh Palace, a nine storey building, is not at the highest point on the hill the sheer magnitude of the structure makes it dominate like a sentinel over the town of Leh nestling beneath it. Viewing the palace required scaling the hillside to reach it. There is always an easier way to accomplish that end but unfortunately we did not spy it until we were high inside the palace looking down. The royal family was exiled from Leh in the 1830's and the palace has been allowed to become dilapidated. Reconstruction is now underway but it will be an enormous task. Part way down from the palace I realised that I had left my bag back inside. Needless to say, Neil was not impressed but raced back up the hill to attempt to retrieve it. Luckily for me it was still sitting where I had left it.
Leh Palace
A Bhuddha image inside the only room that is intact
It was here that I discovered that I had left my bag behind.
A steep path leads from the palace up past the ruined fort to the Namgyal Tsemo Gompa but we opted for the softer option and got a taxi from the town the following day. Slippery paths at heights just aren't my thing. The Gompa is at the summit and offers magnificent views of the old town, Leh itself and the surrounding valley. The gompa was built in 1430 and features a wonderful, huge Buddha image and intricate frescoes.
The ruined Victory Fort
Namgyal Tsemo Gompa
Looking across to Shanti Stua at Changspa
Looking down on the fort and the palace
Looking north from the gompa
The old town of Leh wraps around the base of the hill and, like most old towns, is a maze of alleyways that twist and turn.
Parade practice on the old polo field
From the town of Leh it is easy to set off in any direction down narrow lanes to visit the neighbouring villages. The downhill ambles to the villages were always very enjoyable - the uphill walk back, a little more taxing.
Mo mos washed down with lemon mint tea became our favourite fare, our favourite cafe, Gesmo. There are many nice restaurants in Leh because it is bit of a tourist hub and a common theme are the many german bakeries selling a wide rage of wonderful cakes, sweet pies and cookies.
Leh is a relaxing place to visit with the hassle factor low. The local ladakhi and tibetan refugees are extremely friendly, hospitable and chilled. Although a part of India the general feel of the place is far removed. The only downside of Leh and Ladakh is the ever present DUST. You can't escape it. It is everywhere!
Life in Leh
Soma Gompa - Leh's modern centre of Buddhism
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