13th August
Day 1 we covered 340km with short stops for chais and lunch in 11 hours. Day 2 with only 140km to cover should have been easy. Never jump to early conclusions.
Our overnight stay was at the Ibex Hotel in Jispa. Not a luxury hotel but a decent overnight stay. Our evening buffet meal was very good and they were very amenable to giving us an early breakfast so that we could be on the road at 6am.
We were now travelling through fertile valleys and the frequency of villages increased. Once the mists cleared it was a glorious day. The air was crisp and clear.
Winding higher to Rohtang La it was hard to imagine that the weather would immediately change the moment we passed the summit. Literally the moment we turned the bend at the top - one moment brilliant sunshine, the next foggy and coming in fast. And here in the fog we waited, and waited for .......... an army convoy to come through?
Rotang La is a busy little spot. It is a day trip spot from Manali for indians on holidays to come up and get their first glimpse of snow and walk on a glacier. Hence there are many ponies here to to carry them around as most do not like to walk and numerous food tents. It also one of the reasons why the road ahead is sooooo muddy. The sheer volume of traffic in this section of the road is staggering. the government has brought in new rules that on certain days only commercial vehicles going on to Leh can use the road - no day trippers. The weather was cool here but it was bit of a hoot to see the indians in their rented ski suits. But if your going to see your first snow you have to be suitably attired!
After one and a half hours the army convoy hadn't materialised and we were allowed through the gate. Indians have no concept of lines and those arriving first going first so there were more than just a few queue jumpers. The soldiers on the gate were onto them quick smart!
We didn't get far. A few kilometres further on we were stopped in the mud to once again wait for the army convoy. This section of the road is strictly one way so whether the convoy came through or not at this point in time the opposite direction had right of way - for the next three hours. We were in an ideal spot to watch the fun and games as we were right in the thick of the mud. Unfortunately we stopped where we were we able to watch the mud get more and more churned while we waited our turn to move on.
Finally we were moving once again through the mud in the fog. It was a slow and steady pace that was set as we slipped and slid through maybe a further ten kilometres of mud and barely able to see thirty metres ahead of us most of the way. I had total confidence in Toshi but we were only in a sedan, the bottom of the car was dragging through the mud and the road edge was precariously close many times. Thank you to Toshi for getting us through and to all the gods in India who must have been looking after us that day. I guess that the fog may have done us a favour in that you couldn't see the drop over the side.
After the horror stretch we relaxed and enjoyed the remainder of the journey to Manali.The road still wound its way around mountains but we were out of the mud!
It was an amazing journey but I may be a little greyer. We did it, we survived. Would we do it again? Possibly not, it's a big gamble and we have done it once ...... maybe ...... if they ever finish the tunnel through Rohtang La. .
Day 1 we covered 340km with short stops for chais and lunch in 11 hours. Day 2 with only 140km to cover should have been easy. Never jump to early conclusions.
Our overnight stay was at the Ibex Hotel in Jispa. Not a luxury hotel but a decent overnight stay. Our evening buffet meal was very good and they were very amenable to giving us an early breakfast so that we could be on the road at 6am.
We were now travelling through fertile valleys and the frequency of villages increased. Once the mists cleared it was a glorious day. The air was crisp and clear.
It's a long way down!
The reason why bridges are removed before the bad weather sets - if they don't they get washed away!
A removeable bridge
Yak no.2
Gompa near Keylong
Winding higher to Rohtang La it was hard to imagine that the weather would immediately change the moment we passed the summit. Literally the moment we turned the bend at the top - one moment brilliant sunshine, the next foggy and coming in fast. And here in the fog we waited, and waited for .......... an army convoy to come through?
Rotang La is a busy little spot. It is a day trip spot from Manali for indians on holidays to come up and get their first glimpse of snow and walk on a glacier. Hence there are many ponies here to to carry them around as most do not like to walk and numerous food tents. It also one of the reasons why the road ahead is sooooo muddy. The sheer volume of traffic in this section of the road is staggering. the government has brought in new rules that on certain days only commercial vehicles going on to Leh can use the road - no day trippers. The weather was cool here but it was bit of a hoot to see the indians in their rented ski suits. But if your going to see your first snow you have to be suitably attired!
After one and a half hours the army convoy hadn't materialised and we were allowed through the gate. Indians have no concept of lines and those arriving first going first so there were more than just a few queue jumpers. The soldiers on the gate were onto them quick smart!
Rohtang La Pass - 3978m
Ponies waiting for the daytrippers
Waiting for the go ahead
We didn't get far. A few kilometres further on we were stopped in the mud to once again wait for the army convoy. This section of the road is strictly one way so whether the convoy came through or not at this point in time the opposite direction had right of way - for the next three hours. We were in an ideal spot to watch the fun and games as we were right in the thick of the mud. Unfortunately we stopped where we were we able to watch the mud get more and more churned while we waited our turn to move on.
Stoppages in this section were obviously regular. There were numerous food stalls and outdoor seating in the mud.
And here we stopped, waited and watched!
Mr Confidence!
Mr No Idea in bit of a fix!
Lunch time for the boys (roadworkers)
And over the hours the line got longer and longer!
Finally we were moving once again through the mud in the fog. It was a slow and steady pace that was set as we slipped and slid through maybe a further ten kilometres of mud and barely able to see thirty metres ahead of us most of the way. I had total confidence in Toshi but we were only in a sedan, the bottom of the car was dragging through the mud and the road edge was precariously close many times. Thank you to Toshi for getting us through and to all the gods in India who must have been looking after us that day. I guess that the fog may have done us a favour in that you couldn't see the drop over the side.
After the horror stretch we relaxed and enjoyed the remainder of the journey to Manali.The road still wound its way around mountains but we were out of the mud!
The quick way down.
It was an amazing journey but I may be a little greyer. We did it, we survived. Would we do it again? Possibly not, it's a big gamble and we have done it once ...... maybe ...... if they ever finish the tunnel through Rohtang La. .
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